What to Eat in Lausanne
Swiss Malakoff are considered a local delicacy, and these from the Auberge Communale du Mont-sur-Lausanne won the prize in 2022 for the best Malakoff in the country. Until I go back to eat something other than just Malakoff—albeit delicious!—I figured I couldn’t add the restaurant to my list. February 3, 2023.
Getting my bearings in Lausanne when it comes to food, shopping, places, and activities took a heck of a lot longer than I’d have expected.
Why?
Well, COVID, don’cha know.
Formal restrictions for the coronavirus pandemic consumed two years, after which we had another year or so of no one wanting to start much again for fear of a new lockdown. (You can flip through my coronavirus diary here.) Given that I’d arrived barely a year before COVID did—and given that a lot of back-and-forth with the United States to honor already-made commitments consumed a lot of that first year—well, you get the picture.
However, at long last, I have a few food favorites in town—a list to which I continue to add and update as I explore.
Side note: And if a few general ideas—beyond just the eats!—interest you, I’ve written an overview article with recommendations on what to see and do in Lausanne.
Treat Yourself to Treats!
Sometimes you don’t want a sit-down meal or even well-balanced, healthy food on the go.
Sometimes, you want a treat. Whether something sweet or savory—or a little of both.
Bread Store: Many people would call bread a daily necessity rather than a treat—and I say it’s both. I like the bread better than the desserts, pastries, and the prepared sandwiches, though you may as well try them to see what you think. (You won’t go wrong!) The incredibly fresh, levain-leavened bread sells out well before closing each day; if you plan to go, go toward the front end of the day’s opening hours.
Market Days on Wednesday and Saturday: The main weekly market in Lausanne takes place on Wednesday and Saturday morning. Though you’ll find all the usual items to fill a home pantry, you’ll also find venders offering freshly made snacks and homemade delicacies and treats ranging from the sweet (alpine honey for the yum) through to the savory (empanadas, anyone?).
Moutarlier: Want a delicious dessert or pastry? So far, I haven’t found better than what Moutalier offers. Though their bakery and their chocolates pass muster, this etablishment really shines when it comes to cakes, whether in individual sizes for eating in (Moutalier has a tearoom in the back of the store) or for taking out—or in full sizes for taking to a dinner party or parceling out over several days of treats at home or in your place of stay.
Noz: You couldn’t call this a food write-up on anywhere in Switzerland without a recommendation for a chocolatier, right? My favorite has changed over time—though I’ll admit I still find it hard to choose a best of the ones I like best. Most recently, though, I’ve leaned toward the purity and depth of flavors I’ve found at Noz Chocolatier. The chocolates I’ve had from Noz don’t come across the palate as too sweet—overwhelming all the other aromas—and they don’t come through as too basic or plain, either. Delicious.
Ready-to-Go Prepared Meals and Snacks
Need something ready-made to eat on the go, on a bench during a sunny day, or even during a quick pause in the pick-up spot itself?
Green Gorilla: Green Gorilla in the center of Lausanne has a surprisingly spacious interior in which you can sit and eat one of the fresh and abundant poké bowls, salads, or snacks available in its refrigerator next to the counter. At the counter, you can order hot drinks and smoothies to accompany your meal.
Globus Food Market: The food market on the ground floor of the Globus department store in Lausanne can serve as much as a restaurant or pick-up spot for prepared meals as a luxury grocery store. Here you’ll find sandwiches and charcuterie—and freshly prepared sushi to eat at the counter, along with other treats, all for take-away or eat-in.
Restaurants for Sit-Down Meals
I’ll say it: Lausanne rightfully does not have a reputation as a restaurant town.
Though I’ve tried a few of the high-falutin’ establishments in Lausanne, I haven’t had any wow me enough to recommend you visit. The gap between quality—even high—and price just hasn’t squeezed within reasonable range.
However! When it comes to fresh, easy food in casual establishments, you have several options:
Brasserie de Montbenon: The building might confuse you, as it houses a cinema and an event space as well—but don’t let the confusion dissuade you from a meal (or even just a beverage) in the Brasserie de Montbenon. The restaurant has an open and spacious main dining room and a wide back patio overlooking a lush green lawn with a view over Lake Geneva. The food hasn’t once disappointed me, either—even when they offered a special Thanksgiving meal to tempt people from the United States. (Not bad!)
Cafe de Grancy: This restaurant and coffee shop, open from morning through evening, is a Lausanne classic—and therefore extremely popular during mealtimes. I’d recommend highly reserving a table for breakfast, lunch, or dinner, though you can usually find a table for a drink between meal times without a reservation. The small patio and spacious interior have a warm, almost bar-like vibe; when there, I always feel slightly thrown back to my university days. (Not a bad thing!)
Hungry Bear: I’d frequented the same owners’ adjacent café for tea often, so I hastened to try the restaurant when they opened it next door. Though nothing about preparing great drinks means a group of people can prepare great food, I had high hopes and Hungry Bear did not disappoint them. I’ve had lunch more than once in the establishment—filled with clean, fresh flavors—and look forward to stopping in for brunch and dinner, too.
La Luncheonette: During the daytime, the meals you can get to eat in or take out at La Luncheonnette are healthful and plentiful, too. Though the spot may not look like much from the exterior, the interior—on two levels—is lovely: bright, convivial, and cozy. Nestled in the center of the commercial district in Lausanne, you’ll find this a great spot to have a meal while shopping or touring the central part of the city.
So Much Exploration Still to Do
I can think of endless food categories this list still misses, so I’m on the hunt—especially now that the city has returned to full vibrancy.
For example: As a person who could probably eat nothing but fabulous pizza for the rest of her life and live fulfilled, I still haven’t found better than a passable pizza here in Lausanne. (The quest continues.)
If you know of places and foods I should try, please let me know!